
We've had divine intervention in the Lakrisal investigation. Or rather, professional scientific intervention.
Ever since we tried Lakrisal for the first time, we've been plagued with nagging questions: Where did this stuff come from? Why did most of us find this super salty, soy sauce-esque taste just awful? Do folks in Nordic countries who claim to partake in the enjoyment of this candy actually enjoy it?
A self-described lover of licorice, Dr. Terry Acree teaches chemistry in the Department of Food Science at Cornell University. He offers us some clues as to why we experienced Lakrisal with such displeasure.
Glycyrrhizic acid (as seen above) is the sweet ingredient in the licorice plant. Unlike with table sugar, Acree says, the glycyrrhizic acid in licorice packs a super-sweet taste with a gradual build-up. That sensation is then slow to wear off. Adding ingredients such as ammonium chloride and more sugar -- the other two key components of Lakrisal -- changes the way the product tastes. Ammonium chloride likely enhances the salty taste of Lakrisal, he says, but that could be confirmed only through a proper lab experiment.
One other thing to note is that the proportion of sugar to licorice and ammonium chloride in Lakrisal is probably at a different level than, say, Twizzlers Black Licorice Candy (the other flavors of Twizzlers do not contain any licorice). Which may be why most of us on the TRMS staff found Lakrisal so shockingly salty. Because when we think "licorice," we think of a very specific, sweet candy that executive producer Bill Wolff brings us when we're stressing out.
Next up in our investigation? The history of Lakrisal -- where and why it was born (here's a hint) -- and why it continues to be a popular "candy" in Nordic countries.
And an update on the ingredients search: We have a lead in our search for ammonium chloride so we can make our own Lakrisal. Many kind commenters have noted that we should be looking for food-grade ammonium chloride, not lab-grade. Good to know! Now we are in search of liquorice extract. That one must be easier to come by.
(Image: the sweet in licorice.)





I'm wondering if anyone has tasted Fisherman's Friend which sounds similar in taste, of you can call it that, and is equally nasty but popular in Ireland.
While you are at it, find out why they are also so fond of Lutefisk!!
Actually, they aren't that fond of lutefisk in the Nordic countries (although it is making a comeback in Norway). That particular aberration of the taste buds is pretty much a Norwegian-American thing these days! Lutefisk = the Piece of Cod that Passeth all Understanding.
I agree, oncea . . . that indeed is a mystery. Tho, I can understand why (after a meal of lutefisk, which is cod preserved in lye, served floating in a thin cream sauce and topped with butter . . . accompanied by plain boiled potatoes) Lakrisal could certainly seem quite Snickersish!
When I was much younger, I loved a soft, black bar of licorice. I thought Switzers made it. I haven't found this in years, and really crave it. Anyone know what happened? I would give most anything to have another bar of that wonderful stuff!
There are about four brands available that are on par with the old Switzer's (I agree with your memories). Try Panda, which comes in both small bars and a box of soft nuggets (right word?). There are others; some come from Aussie manufacturers, but right now I'm snacking on one from Oregon called "Natural Vines." That one was the one on sale...
Freshness is the key, and they are available here in the major grocery stores (although not at Wal-Mart). Of course the FDA just issued a warning last fall that black licorice can lower potassium levels and cause the body to retain water (a problem for those with heart disease).
I'm not inclined to fact check that one, however. They're still purging the incompetents that Bush appointed to the federal bureaucracy... Moderation is wise, regardless...
Darrell Lea is the Australian brand and you can get it at Target - not as fresh as 'at home', but still yummy.
Ouzo and fennel are said to have a licorice flavor (I don't like licorice, I avoid ouzo and fennel). I wonder if glycyrrhizic acid molecules contribute to their flavor profiles? Someone else will have to follow up. I'm trying to find out what proteins in soy milk and raw carrots responsible for histamine reactions.
There's a huge variety of dutch licorice flavors available to: Venco does assorted bags, of sweet, salty and sour licorice (in Dutch it's called "drop").
For example sweet http://www.dutchsweets.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=13&products_id=254
and salty http://www.dutchsweets.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=13&products_id=254
Quite addictive!
Neil